Hank's Oyster Bar (DC - DuPont)

As a devoted fan of Jamie Leeds' honest, true-to-the-season cooking at 15Ria, I have been eagerly awaiting the opening of her new restaurant, Hank's Oyster Bar (1624 Q Street, NW). Last Sunday, I finally had a chance to check out her new digs and it was everything I had been hoping for. The menu is a simple, seafood-forward offering that would please any tidewater denizen.

My wife and I were immediately drawn to the Fried Oyster Po'Boy and the Lobster Roll (I know, nothing like a light Sunday brunch to get the day started). Having sampled Chef Leeds' frying prowess at 15Ria (especially her fried calamari and her buttermilk and blue cheese battered onion rings), we knew the Po'Boy would deliver. At the same time, we approached the Lobster Roll with the sort of skepticism that a Marylander might have for an out-of-state crabcake - doubting she could pull it off, but willing to give it a go.

When the food arrived, we were both immediately taken aback by the rolls - in lieu of the sub rolls that most places try to pass off, Hank's served both sandwiches on authentic, New England style split rolls (those rectangular looking hot dog rolls). The bread was glistening with butter and a delightful golden brown from having all four sides spend time on the griddle. That trick lent instant credibility to the Lobster Roll, but called the Fried Oyster Po'Boy into question. After a few bites of each, we were convinced.

The Lobster Roll is very much in the spirit of Maine's finest. A mound of sweet lobster meat chunks with just enough mayonnaise to hold them together, wrapped in a salty, buttery, crunchy on the outside and doughy on the inside roll. An amazing juxtaposition of warm and cool, hard and soft and sweet and salty. Hank's isn't the best Lobster Roll I have ever had - nor at $17 is it the cheapest - but when you are jonesing for that uniquely Maine treat, and are stuck in the District, you would be hard pressed to do any better.

The Fried Oyster Po'Boy was similarly enjoyable. While my friends from Naw'lins would never recognize the half dozen fried oysters tucked into a roll as a "Po'Boy," if they closed their eyes, they would be forced to admit that it measured up. The oysters are ever so slightly fried, so as to achieve a light, crispy outside that belies the juicy center. The sensation is a brief crunch on your teeth followed by a rush of warm oyster. Married with a dollop of tartar sauce and the aforementioned split rolls, it is truly outstanding. At just $10, the Po'Boy is also far less of a guilty pleasure than the Lobster Roll.