Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Hook (DC - Georgetown)

Georgetown finally has a restaurant worth writing about - Hook. Barton Seaver has built a hip, sleek temple to responsibly sourced seafood. Pay no attention to the recent reviews that describe the food as "bland." When you can source really great food (and fish, in particular), you don't need to bury it under a sea of sauces, rubs and reductions - those theatrics are typically employed to disguise inferior product.

The crudos are a must, as is the white salmon when it is on the menu. Fans of Catalan cooking should definitely order the "Black Risotto" - Seaver's take on Arroz Negro. It is lighter and less salty than the Catalan classic (both welcome changes, in my mind) and makes an ideal side dish (NB: If your waiter forgets to tell you, the kitchen at Hook will prepare many course as side dishes if you ask).

Finally - and I rarely say this - save room for dessert. My favorite is the carrot cake (served "deconstructed" with crème fraîche sorbet, raisin chutney and candied walnuts) but my wife loves the chocolate tart (with caramel ice cream and salted cashews) and the beignets with nutella are always a big hit. The menu changes frequently to keep up with the seasons, so dont be surprised to find basil ice cream, etc.

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