Citronelle (DC - Georgetown)

Last evening we dined at the Chef's Table at Citronelle. It was a magnificent experience - equal parts theater, food and wine. The food itself was superb, but I can't really do justice to each of Michel's dishes because of the outstanding wine service. It was the best set of wines I have had in a single setting sice we dined at Enoteca Pinchiori in November, 2005.

Amuse Bouche
- Smoked salmon w/ cauliflower mousse
- Onion and gruyere tart
- Escargot w/ garlic custard
=> Merry Edwards Vineyards "Cuvee Meredith" Blanc de Noirs, Russian River Valley, 2000

First Course
- Portobello and truffle "cappuccino"
- Mushroom croque monsier
=> Blandy's 15 Year Old Rich Malmsey Madeira

Second Course
- Virtual cuttlefish linquine w/ chal chowder sauce
=> Rousanne "Besson Vineyard" Sarah's Vineyard, Gilroy, California, 2006

Third Course
- Rockfish with lemon verbena sauce
=> Sauvignon Blanc "L'Apres Midi" Peter Michael Winery, Sonoma Mountain, 2005

Fourth Course
- Lobster burgers w/ chips
=> Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, 2004

Fifth Course
- Breast of muscovy duck w/ black cherry anise sauce
=> Chateaunuf-du-Pape "Pignan" Chateau Rayas Reserve, 2004

Main Course
- Saddle of cervina venison w/ huckleberry and fig sauce
=> Cabernet Sauvignon "Hillside Select" Shafer Vineyards, Napa Valley, 2002

Cheese Course
=> Shiraz "Carnival of Love" Mollydooker Wines, McLaren Vale, South Australia, 2006

Desserts & Petit Fours
=> Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, Domaine de la Bergerie

As I said, the wine program was beyond parallel. The food ranged from the playful (lobster burger, "cappuccino") to the imaginative (virtual fettucine), to the artful (amuse bouche) and the technically superior (rockfish and venison). The venison was the hands-down crowd favorite and the only dish that didn't quite measure up was the duck. The skin was ideally crisp, but the meat itself was a little tough.

Finally, the desserts exhibited a variety and flair that I haven't seen since they shuttered the doors at Le Cirque in New York. Eight different desserts, each a kaleidoscope of color, covering the panoply of ingredient and technique.